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Installing TV.

This is a straight forward demonstration of how I installed a 12 volt TV monitor.

 Total cost of TV equipment was $A305, including all materials associated with the electrical wiring.







7” TFT monitor with inbuilt TV receiver



12 volt, 24 DB TV signal booster



One pair diversity antennas



Power supply materials:

Toggle switch

Blade type inline fuse holder

5 amp blade fuse

4mm cable

Cigarette lighter socket double adapter.



First step, the power supply. This is needed for both the monitor and signal booster.


Extend the cable on the inline fuse holder long enough to reach the cavity behind the centre of the dash. I used a crimp link but soldering and taping will work just as well.



I picked up a constant 12 volt supply at the back of the fuse box and soldered on one end of the inline fuse holder. Route this cable to the cavity behind the centre of the dash (where the ECU is). Pick up a ground somewhere and route this behind the dash as well.

Don’t put the fuse in yet.



Next I got the 12 volt double adaptor, cut the male plug off and crimped some crimp links on the cable. Note that these cables are small and both wires can fit into one crimp link. (I chose to use the cigarette lighter plugs as supplied on the equipment rather than hard wire them. This will maintain the integrity of the materials so I can remove it at a later date if required and reuse.)



Install a crimp lug to the end of the positive cable and fit to the switch. Run another cable from the other side of the switch to the double adaptor and crimp. Crimp your ground wire to the other side of the double adaptor.

* Note that it is important that you connect the correct polarity to the socket outlets. Electronic equipment such as the TFT monitor is polarity conscious and reversing may damage the equipment.


(The only reason I used a switch is to be able to isolate the power to the booster. This will consume a small amount of power at all times and I thought it sensible to be able to switch it off.)


You should now have something like these 2 photos:



Ok, that’s the power supply done so we can now install the monitor and booster.

I installed the monitor behind the gear stick. There is enough room that it doesn’t get in the way of the cigarette lighter socket, radio controls or gear stick.



The surface that the monitor sit on isn’t as big as the footprint of the monitor stand nor flat. I used some of those double sided mounting squares you can buy at the newsagents for a couple of dollars and cut them to suit the available mounting area.


  I ran the monitor and antenna wires behind the kick panel and sneaked them out towards the front.


  So now we have….


  Locate where cabling goes through the firewall into the cabin and pop the rubber grommet out of the hole.


  Use a pair of side cutters and snip the grommet off as the antenna plugs won’t fit through it.



There’s not many places to mount the antennas so I chose each lower corner of the windscreen.


So mount the antennas and neatly cable tie the wiring to the hole in the firewall.


They actually look a lot better than I thought they might and aren’t obtrusive at all (while they’re down).



Now feed a wire through the hole in the firewall and tape the antenna wires to it. Feed the antenna wires through the hole and pull out into the cabin. Do this again for the second antenna.

Put the grommet back around the cables and insert it back into the firewall.


  Plug the antennas into the booster and cable tie up the extra wiring. You should have something like this now….


  Push all the wires, excluding the switch into the cavity. Now drill a suitably sized hole into the kick panel or the bottom part of the dash to mount the switch. Mount the switch and turn on.


  Now we’re ready to go. Install the fuse, power up the monitor and tune it in.



There you go – TV on the move.


I also made up a cover to put over the screen when not in use to keep direct sunlight off it.


  You can also use the TV monitor for DVD, GPS, PS2, XBox, etc